for the recent long weekend rob and i planned to go for a three day hike along the wild coast starting at the haven and finishing at the home away from home, mdumbi. nothing in the transkei comes without some organisational nightmare. our first major problem was the lack of anyone to drop us off at the haven and so it looked as if the hike would get cancelled. fortunately it was suggested to us that if we started at mdumbi and walked to the haven, then we could pay one of the mdumbi drivers to navigate rob's bakkie down to the haven and pick us up. however, this was suggested to us on the tuesday before the long weekend, it was unlikely that there would still be accommodation available at the various sleepover points along the hike. mdumbi, hole in the wall and bulungula were all fully booked, but we decided to go anyway. the main draw card of this particular hike is the backpackers along the way who provide a bed and bedding and food, thus decreasing the load you carry in your pack. indeed it can be done with only a daypack ideally. such was not our lot. full sized packs were found and dusted off and sleeping bags and a tent were acquired. we were also joined by a new arrival to hospital, one elin hem stenersen, a volunteer physiotherapist from norway. we arrived at mdumbi on the thursday and, despite being fully booked, there were three beds available in the dorms. sweet.
here we are at the beginning with rob upping the ante for the "best looking" prize on the hike. the walk on the first day is punctuated by a trip on a small ferry over the mthatha river
and later on, lunch at coffee bay. you dont need to carry any food for the first day unless you want to cut costs. elin had a chicken salad at coffee shack while rob and i contemplated the hardships in our lives... so many hardships
the highlight of the first day is a reef between coffee bay and hole in the wall which looks like it would hold some awesome south west swell. if you have spent the day hiking and have seen hole in the wall before then hole in the wall can wait for the next morning. once again there was accommodation available at the backpackers. this time, to our misfortune, we had a roommate. he snored. bastard.
the next morning we set off with the wind at our backs and bumped into our roommate at the hole. he was passed out by his lonesome on the beach across the river. aren't motorbiking holidays great? the second day consisted of some rather steep climbs and descents. the views were spectacular and the beaches were beautiful.
the agony in my lower limbs while making repeated ascents was soothed by the beauty around me and the assurance that with every step bulungula was getting closer. i have never been so happy to see a backpackers. the food that evening was babootie and yellow rice followed by malva pudding. the main course was so brilliant and smothered with bananas and chutney that it almost made up for the puny size of the desert. attempts on my part to steal more were non-existent. i was too tired to move. bulungula was the only place not to have official room in the inn for us, but we all know what happens in inns with no room (well, everyone who went to sunday school should know). we bumped into fellow health professionals from zitulele and madawaleni and a great time was had. elin and i pitched a tent under the the stars while rob strung out his hammock in the forest on the dunes. satisfaction guaranteed.
a brisk walk from bulungula will take you to the xhora river. since we hiked at the end of winter most of the rivers were easy to cross. the xhora presented the only deep crossing to be made. i came prepared of course and my bag remained dry during the short swim required. rob managed to find a wading route with no swim needed... it looked far away... besides, i was prepared... so i'm damn well going to swim.
the wind had changed overnight and now was forcing us back with every step we took. combine this with soft sandy beaches and you get some hard graft. fortunately there were no more hills just flat walks along the beach. we stopped for lunch at breezy point, a five star wave and one which doesnt rely on sand like mdumbi, even without good conditions we saw one awesome wave crash to shore as we began the final stretch of the hike. the wind was increasing in velocity as a cold front approached us; rain started to spit out of the clouds; and then we spotted our driver on the beach. it was good to be done. the blister on my small toe was beginning to challenge the toe in girth. we drove back to mdumbi, the rain following close behind us, some birds sat on the fence and complained about the weather, and i appreciated life a little bit more.
thanks for an awesome hike guys. drakensberg is next on the list
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